How to Play Chicken With Pacific Ocean Waves That Can Kill You

Playing Chicken with Pacific Ocean Waveshigh-stepped like a football tight end through a sea of
For awhile I watched from the beach as Doris playedopposing team tacklers to get speed through the
"chicken" with the waves. When there was a lull in thewaist-deep swell. It was a race to beat the slam of
heavy waves, I slipped out of my cap, shoes andthat monstrous wave and its terrible undertow.
T-shirt to slip into the water myself. It was surprisingI lost.
how warm the water was. I have taken many baths inA Mack truck slammed into my body from behind to
water that was a lot cooler than this and I don't takesend me tumbling helter-skelter in the bubbling brown
cold water baths by a long shot.sea soup. Emerging from the froth to the sounds of
"The water is really warm", I said to Doris.Doris' laughter, I struggled to get upright. But before I
"Yeah, isn't it great?"could regain my feet, the dreaded undertow began
I couldn't believe how warm two sunny days haddragging me seaward like a limp rag doll. Doris
made the surf.splashed over grabbing my arm to try to prevent me
Heavier Pacific Ocean Waves Begin Rolling inbeing swept out further. The undertow started taking
Higher, heavier waves now began to roll in. We playedboth of us. Fighting to break free, we pushed against
chicken with them, running to the water's edge whenthe receding sands finally getting a foot hold. The sea
the waves crested more than about six feet in height.lost this battle. We dried off deciding to take another
"Don't go out too far", my wife warned.dip the next day in calmer waters. Still, it was amazing
The undertow from the breaking waves told of anhow warm the Pacific Ocean was with two
outgoing tide. With higher waves, it could easily carry aconsecutive sunny days to warm Jurubida's Bay.
person out past the breaking point with potentiallyThis is but one of the many ways to pass vacation
disastrous results.leisure time when teaching English as a foreign
A Nearly Fatal Case in Pointlanguage in Colombia. I hope it's still that warm
Minutes later, barely 20 feet from the waters edge,tomorrow. Unfortunately, the unpredictable sea had yet
we turned to see a towering wave of turgid wateranother surprise waiting for us all the next day. And
bearing down on us. In unison, we bolted for thethis time it was much more serious than we could
shallows with Doris a couple of steps ahead of me. Ihave imagined. But that's another story.